Quality Air Compressor Pressure Switch Control 95-125 PSI 4 Port w/Unloader LF10-4H-1-NPT1/4-95-125

Replacing your pressure switch on your 30 year old Craftsman 2HP compressor? This is the perfect part, but you need to do some modifications, and you must be comfortable with electrical and mechanical work. If you are not, don't bother doing this. First of all, dis-assembly of the new part - of course - voids all warranty, and you assume any and all risks, hazards, and dangers associated with your modifications. REALLY!!! I didn't want to re-plumb all the tubing on my compressor - this switch was functionally the same, but not a physical replacement. It takes about two hours to rebuild just the switch. Disassemble the new and old switch completely. Keep the parts separated. The switch assembly is spring-loaded and pops apart like a strong mouse trap - caution is advised. You should study the assembly as much as possible before taking it apart to make sure you understand how the two moving parts interact. The only thing I needed from the old switch was the threaded mounting plate and the actual original switch lever, although I used the plastic wire grommets with the original power cord and motor cord. The trick is to assemble the switch with the hysteresis spring disconnected from the front hook, and be sure both calibration screws are backed out all the way to start. Once it is all re-assembled, you need to grab the spring and hook it over the front hook. I used thick nylon string to pull it out and hook it - very difficult, very frustrating, but worth the effort because you'll have a perfect switch. I disconnected the wire pigtail from the motor and pre-wired the switch with the pigtail and the power cord. My re-assembly sequence was cast output tubing, regulator and gauge assembly, switch assembly with cords attached, three pre-bent tubes, high-pressure release, motor, and belt. I used white tape on all pipe threads. Once I started it I calibrated the high-pressure shut-off to 125 psi, and calibrated the re-start pressure to 90 psi. The specific directions for calibrating is inside the new switch cover. I used my existing compressor gauges for calibration of the switch, and it took about an hour to tweak the calibration to exactly what I wanted. All in all this was about a eight-hour job, but I got to totally clean the compressor, replace the oil with synthetic, and now I have a new switch. I bet the compressor will last another 30 years for me. If the new switch fails, I do know how to replace it easily! Good luck - remember, before you order this switch, you must be very patient in addition to being comfortable with dis-assembly and re-assembly of electro-mechanical devices. It is easy to give up but worth the effort to succeed! I didn't want to buy a new compressor!

perfect fit, easy change, well made and functions as should

could not fine a pressure switch for my compressor, that was exactly the same as the 27 yr old one. However, this one works well, and is well priced. beware, you need extra part.s why the unloader connection is on the front is beyond me.....mine was on the back SO....you need 1/4" npt plugs to fill extra holes You need 1/4" npt coupler to mount to compressor manifold You need longer unloader tube most likely you need conduit clamps to secure wiring to switch box holes on side you may need to change from spade terminals to U or ring terminals on your wires all in all, the switch was $16, and I needed $40 parts to make it work . But it seems to be well made switch. I like that if the cover is removed, there is a reset you can push to enable it to restart if its in the 90-125 psig range after cutting off...handy for setting the cutouts instead of having to bleed air off or such to get it to restart again. The cutouts seem to be set well though.

I inherited this air compressor from my grandpa, it had been sitting for years and would not start. Not a big deal it just needed a little love and a few parts to get it back into service. Both the start and run capacitors were replaced initially, this got the electric motor running, but it wasn't shutting off cleanly (it was just bogging down the motor), so I needed a switch. The original manifold and regulator are no longer made, the replacement uses this style of switch with 4 ports. You need to add a pressure regulator, safety value (I used the old one), tank pressure gauge and whatever airline fitting you intend on using. This switch did have 2 rubber grommets where you run the electrical cords, remove them and use cord restraints. The rubber plugs will not prevent your electrical from being pulled out. The switch is good quality with a nice decisive actuation when it shuts off. The unloader is in a weird spot I would have preferred it pointed to the rear instead of directly at me. I suppose it's not that big of deal if that's the only problem I have. It took me awhile to figure out a fix for the original part being discontinued so hopefully this saves someone in the same situation some headache. I'm happy with it.

Perfect replacement for my Harbor Freight air compressor. Fit, setting, operation.

Perfect fit.. easy to install with little mechanical skills.. 30 mins to replace..

The Lefoo LF10-4H has a four-port manifold. The 4H denotes four ports in the manifold. I purchased the LF10-4H o replace an LF10-4H on my Craftsman Air Compressor. I wanted the connections to match up exactly so I didn't have to modify any connections, air or electrical. When I received the LF10 from Amazon, I noted two differences from my OEM switch. First the manifold orientation was off 90 degrees. Second, the air downloader valve was straight, not 90 degrees like my OEM switch. I moved the downloader from the OEM switch to the new one and solved that problem, but the manifold was still not properly oriented. There is minimal discussion online about rotating the manifold, therefore I attempted it. I discovered it is possible but very difficult as the switch is spring loaded and it is very difficult to compress the spring loaded switch while at the same time placing it into the bracket containing the downloader. I finally modified the switch housing and used fishing line to compress the spring while I inserted the switch into its' bracket. After modifications, I was able to align all the connections. The switch worked fine and no more cycling issues with the compressor.

It works well. All I had to do was reroute the copper pressure line as the fitting on this switch is at a different angle than the OEM.

fit perfect, dose the job its intended for, great price. i will buy it again

Works as described. Very good quality compared to my previous pressure switch.

Buen producto enciende y apaga el motor dentro de los parámetros establecidos , incluso hice pruebas, cambiando los parámetros y los resultados fueron excelentes, había comprado uno de precio de otra marca pero le cambie los parámetros y los resultados no fueron los esperados por ese motivo es que compre lefoo ya qué es la marca qué originalmente trae mi compresor.

横にある？？排圧弁？？の縦横の向きが変更となっているので、この部品を旧品から転用して調整。 電源の安全装置作動不良と調整圧力範囲不良の対策ができ、順調に運転している。

Good price easy to install works perfect