EGV922 EGR Valve

A failed EGR equals poor running. This does what it is susposed to at a highly competitive price point.

We will see it’s durability !! Been 2 monthsAnd still going. Very hard install on thisModel. No fault of the part. Hope thisBrand holds up.

The EGR valve fit perfectly on my 2006 Suzuki XL-7. The repair is more complicated than it seems due to the location of the valve on the underside of the back of the intake. Make sure you find a tutorial and block plenty of time.

This EGR valve is the exact OEM part from Suzuki and even comes with new gasket! A+++

Very disappointed. Only work for 2 days. After engine check light comes on. Run test only to find out product is the problem. So am i going to be refunded?

I did this job by removing the Intake Manifold Collector Pipe along with the EGR Valve and EGR tube attached to it. Removing the battery will give you more space to complete this job. Some people claim to be able to remove the EGR valve without removing anything else by just removing the electrical connector and the two bolts that hold the EGR valve onto the bottom of the collector pipe. I tried this with a socket wrench, but there was no room for leverage or to turn the wrench.Removing the Collector Pipe:Part 1: You need to remove the throttle body. The reason is because of a bracket that is mounted to the collector pipe right below the throttle body. That bracket holds the metal tubes that connect to the PCV valve hoses and the coolant supply line for the throttle body. If that bracket is not removed, you won’t be able to lift the collector pipe out. The throttle body itself is easy to take out if you ignore the service manual. It’s held on with two M6 bolts at the bottom and two M6 studs/nuts on top. The secret is to remove the studs. This allows you to lift the throttle body straight up and out after disconnecting the two small coolant hoses and the electrical connector. After removing the throttle body, I disconnected the EGR Valve electrical connector by snaking my left hand in from the passenger side where the battery was.Part 2: Remove brackets attached to the Collector Pipe. There is one bracket on the passenger side that holds the MAP sensor connector and the Fuel injector harness connector. One 10mm bolt holds it on. Remove it, then tie the bracket and connectors out of the way with a long zip tie. There is one bracket on the driver’s side for the EVAP purge valve connector and throttle body connector. One 10mm bolt on top and another behind the collector pipe holds it on. There are also two ground lugs bolted to the top of the collector pipe that need to be removed. Finally, there is a third bracket behind the collector pipe that holds the main wiring harness to it. It’s held on with a 10mm bolt. Remove the PCV valve hoses that are attached to the Collector pipe on either side of the throttle body and one EVAP purge hose that connects at the top of the collector pipe.Part 3: Removing the Collector pipe with the EGR Valve and tube still attached. This is the hardest part of the job. The collector pipe is held onto the intake manifold with two nuts and one bolt on each side. It would seem easy to remove these nuts/bolts, but several are very hard to get a socket wrench on. And they are very tight. I rounded the head on one nut trying to get it off, but a nut extractor got it off fairly quickly. Once these nuts and bolts were off, I removed the two small bolts that attach the EGR tube to the exhaust manifold. Easy access to those bolts, but don’t forget the metal gasket between the tubeand the Exhaust manifold. There is also a bracket at the center of the EGR tube with a bolt you can’t see on the firewall side and a visible welded nut on the front side that holds the tube in place. A 10mm box wrench got the bolt off. One last thing to do before lifting out the Collector pipe with EGR tube and EGR Valve – there is a small water pipe that runs along the passenger side of the intake manifold that is held in place with two 10mm bolts. Remove those bolts. Otherwise, the Collector Pipe will hit the hose connected to the metal tube as you try sliding it off the studs on the passenger side. Now you can slide the Collector pipe back towards the firewall and when it clears the studs, pull it out by carefully maneuvering the EGR pipe around the heater hoses.Once the Collector pipe was out and the EGR valve removed, I could now easily see the valve was stuck partially open, resulting in all my symptoms including very rough idle and constant stalling at a stop. Installed the new valve, torqued it to 15 ft lbs and reversed the entire procedure above to reinstall everything. Three hours from start to finish (including half hour to thoroughly clean throttle body). Car runs fine now.